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| Remodel load-bearing wall |
Updating your home for better energy efficiency and mechanical performance often involves installing up-to-code wiring, plumbing and insulation. Running new elements requires the removal of at least one side of most walls to allow open access to the stud space within. While you can tear out partition walls that do not support the structure above, load-bearing walls must stay in place. You can still remodel load-bearing walls and even beef-up their structure during the process.
Wall Surface Removal
Old drywall panels come off with relative ease. By breaking a small hole anywhere in the drywall face with a hammer, you can then pull the surrounding drywall off the studs by hand. With the claw end of the hammer, pull the remaining nails from the wall studs. Old plaster and lath walls are messier but not more difficult to remove. The best way is to use a hammer to shatter the plaster coating, breaking it off in chunks from the wood laths. When all the plaster is off, remove the thin wood laths, prying each one off with the claw of the hammer. As the plaster comes off, the dust will fly so don protective eyewear and a respirator mask.
Wall Reinforcement
The key to reinforcing a load-bearing wall’s structure is to remember that you can add studs but you can’t remove them. If the old studs are warped or show insect damage or decay, cut and install new studs beside the old studs. The new studs should fit snugly between the top and bottom wall plates and tight against the old studs. Usually, one new stud beside each damaged stud is sufficient, but for added strength, you can put a new stud on both sides. Use a framing nailer and angle two nails through the top and bottom of the new studs, attaching them to the plates. Insert additional nails about every 12 inches on the inside of the new stud to secure it to the existing stud.
Adding Mechanical Elements
Drill ¼-inch larger than the diameter of the wire or pipe. For example, if you’re installing a 3/8-inch water-supply line, use a 5/8-inch drill bit to make the holes. To install drainpipes, which are typically 2-3 inches in diameter, the wall must be framed with 2-by-6 or larger, wall studs. Two-by-fours, which are only 3.5 inches wide, are not large enough to accommodate drainpipes. If running a drainpipe involves drilling holes in more than two adjacent load-bearing studs, consult an engineer first to make sure you don’t compromise the integrity of the wall.
Framing New Doorways
Before adding a doorway to an existing load-bearing wall, consult an engineer. In most load-bearing walls, you can install a doorway, but you must build a structural header over the doorframe that is substantial enough to transfer the weight load to the studs on either side of the door. Double doorways require larger headers than do single doorways. Depending upon width, existing stud dimensions and spacing, the engineer will design a header and determine how many supporting studs, called “jack studs,” are necessary.
Installing New Wall Finish
After new wiring and/or plumbing elements are in place, you can install drywall panels. For the smoothest walls, keep seams to a minimum by making a drywall layout to scale on paper first. The typical method for installing drywall on standard 8-foot walls, involves attaching two horizontal rows of 4-by-8-foot panels. Always install the upper row first, pushing the drywall sheets as tightly as possible against the ceiling. Use drywall foot jacks to raise the bottom row of panels snugly against the top row before attaching the panels to the studs with a drywall screw gun.
Fill the seams with drywall compound and apply a layer of drywall tape during the initial compound application. The drywall finishing methods used on load-bearing walls are identical to those used on partition walls. The trick is to apply the compound in multiple, very thin, layers and to let each layer dry completely and sand it with a drywall sanding screen before apply the next layer.
The Even Numbers: Framing in a Header Over Doors
is an exciting time, but it can also be nerve wracking and frustrating as you balance design, budget and building codes. A 
is flexible enough to accommodate unforeseen construction and design changes, but firm enough to make sure you get the home you want at a price you can afford. 
. Before you start interviewing contractors, talk to your lender about a 
and a subsequent 
. Based upon your income, your 
and your current bills, your banker will give you an idea of how much money you can spend. 
broker will tell you that a desirable location is essential in the sale of a home, so it’s also a factor when you’re shopping for a lot on which to build your house. Talk to a real estate agent about the cost and desirability of various subdivisions. Before buying a lot, find out if the subdivision has its own building codes (covenants), if there is a 
(HOA), and whether you will bear an additional tax burden that supports the cost of the development.
you hire will work closely with you during the 
, so it’s imperative that you develop a good working relationship. If you already have a builder, great, if you don’t, visit with new homeowners about their building experience and ask for contractor recommendations.
, but until then, you still need to safeguard your investment. A builder’s risk insurance policy is essential for protecting your financial investment in the case of fire, theft or other damage during the building process. 
. Unfortunately, older homes and poorly constructed homes may have inadequate insulation in the walls. In addition, some older types of insulation settle and compress with age, leaving gaps in the walls that reduce your homes thermal resistance, or R-value. The best time to insulate the walls is before the drywall is in place, but you can still add insulation to existing walls later if you need additional insulation.
into the space. The fibers filter downward and fill the space, adding insulating value. After he’s done, the contractor will plug the holes to match the exterior siding on your home. If your home has masonry siding, your contractor may blow in the insulation from inside the home.
, or storm windows, can reduce heat transfer through exterior walls. Re-siding an older home with foam-backed siding is another option. Even small steps, like adding new weather stripping to doors and caulking gaps between in exterior siding will reduce drafts and increase energy efficiency. 
allow the user to make long straight cuts in large sheets of wood. With a “fence,” that guides the wood panel; the user can slide the sheet smoothly along while the table saw does all the hard work. Drywall panels are very large and unwieldy, the smallest standard size being 4 feet in width and 8 feet long. A sheet of plywood of the same size would certainly benefit from the use of a table saw for cuting. However, there are better ways to cut a drywall panel.
, will create clouds of drywall dust if used to cut the panels. The dust can clog the table saw motor and dull the blade of the saw.
. You don’t even have to cut all the way through the panel; just score the panel on the front, “paper faced,” side, and then tap the backside of the panel and it will “break” along the scored line. 
is essential for making straight cuts. After measuring the panel, place the top of the square, which features a “T” shape, on the top edge of the drywall. The long vertical part of the square will extend downward, along the face of the panel.
is similar to a hand drill, but with a long cutting bit.